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The N249 is known to cause confusion amongst Volkswagen owners. Codes that you will typically see when there is an issue with the N249 valve can be:
- 17608/P1200 – Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
- 18693/P2261 – Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction – Implausible Signal – Intermittent
- 17695/P1287 – Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Open Circuit
If you are getting any of the above codes, chances are your valve solenoid is faulty and will need to be replaced or deleted. However, before determining that the valve solenoid is the reason for your issues, make sure to check all of the connecting hoses, the diverter valve (DV), and the N75 valve because these could also cause the codes above to be thrown. But, the valve solenoid is the most common failure in VW boost pressure systems. But what does this mean and how do you fix it?
N249 – Diverter Valve Control Solenoid
A boost pressure control valve, turbocharger recirculating valve, turbocharger bypass valve, diverter valve control solenoid, N249 valve are all the same thing. In Layman’s terms, the N249 is a valve solenoid that is connected to the intake vacuum source to the back of the diverter valve (DV) and it controls the boost signal to the DV telling it when to open. Essentially it is a part that is there to regulate boost pressure alongside the DV.
Causes of N249 Failure
Something to note before jumping into the causes when receiving any of the codes above, make sure to check before saying for certain that it is in fact the N249 valve that is malfunctioning.
- Everyday wear and tear
- Faulty electrical connection
- Ripped diaphragm or seal
These valves are not made the best out of Volkswagen’s factory, so more often than not, you will have multiple N249’s fail throughout the life cycle of your vehicle.
Symptoms of N249 Failure
It may be hard to self-diagnose your vehicle as having a faulty N249 solenoid, but the list below of symptoms could give you a good starting point.
- Diverter valve fluttering/sticking
- Engine surge
- Low boost pressure
- CEL illuminating (Fault codes: P1200, P2261, P1287)
How to Fix an N249 Failing
When it comes to fixing the valve solenoid, there are really two solid options you can go with. The most popular, but not recommended, an option is going to be to bypass the valve solenoid entirely. This sparks a heavily debated topic, so I would love to hear your opinion in the comment section!
Replace the Valve Solenoid
You can either take it to the dealer self-diagnosed and ask them to replace it, which may come out to around $183 (for the part at the dealership) + labor. However, if you know your way around your vehicle’s engine, this isn’t a terribly difficult replacement.
N249 Valve Solenoid Replacement Options:
Aftermarket 1.8t: Valve Control Solenoid (N249 Valve)
DIY Difficulty: Moderate
1.8t DIY Guide: *Currently trying to find a guide*
Bypass/Delete the N249 Valve
Your vehicle does not NEED an N249 valve solenoid to run properly, but we believe since Volkswagen introduced it in the 2000+ vehicles it is recommended. Some people don’t want the solenoid messing with their vehicle’s boost pressure. Before going over the guides to deleting the solenoid, we’ll go a little into some pros and cons that we’ve read around the community.
- Faster DV response
- Smooth and progressive boost curve
- Better looking engine bay (Minor)
- Elevated boost levels
- CEL illuminating w/o a tune to adjust
- Boost spikes may grow causing leaner conditions
- Possible additional pressure drop in the ICs
DIY Difficulty: Easy
1.8t DIY Guide (Video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MndfASW1t6I
1.8t DIY Guide (Write-Up): https://uk-mkivs.net/topic/17401-my-guide-to-removing-the-n249-valve-with-pictures/